November 2010

  • Tuesday, November 30, 2010

    The Alcazar

           Unlike the Sistine Chapel, Islamic art forbides representations of people or animals. Moorish artists seem to throw their efforts into amazing patterns and fine detail. Sevilla's Royal Palace, the Alcazar, is one of three buildings in the world that has been in constant use for more than 1000 years. The palace, erected in the 10th Century by the Arab caliph Abd-ar-Rahman III is still used as a place of royal residence when King Juan Carlos and his family are in Sevilla. Its name "Al Qasr" in Arabic means "the fortress". Basically, when the Christians retook Spain after nearly 800 years of Moorish rule they found the Alcazar so beautiful they had the forsight to preserve it and merely alter it to fit their own uses. The resulting Arab - Hispanic architecture is rerfered to as "Mudéjar". This room is where King Ferdinand and Isabella met Christopher Columbus after he returned from America.

    Dome

    The room follows the style of a "qubba" (Islamic mausoleum) but when you take a closer look you can see the Spainish influences such as the alternating castles and lions representing the Spanish Royal family.

    Detail

    Below: Patio de las Doncellas "The Courtyard of the Maidens."  The name refers to the legend that the Moors demanded 100 virgins every year as tribute from Christian kingdoms in Iberia. A myth to bolster the Reconquista movement.

    Pool

    Below: The Queens Bath. (Don't really know the story behind this, it just looked cool.)

    The Queen's bath

  • Monday, November 29, 2010

    Sistine Chapel

          Security is tight at the Sistine Chapel. Photos and videos are strictly forbidden. But, being a recovering Catholic, I recall that it's easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission, so here you go.

    Sistine Chapel

    A closer peek.

    Detail

           Michelangelo "Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarroti Simoni" was actually called to work on the Sistine Chapel twice, completing the ceiling in about 5 years (1508 and 1512) and then being called upon to paint the Last Judgment (1535–1541). He didn't really want to paint the Sistine Chapel, but many art Historians consider some of it's panels to be his best work.

    The Last Judgement

  • Saturday, November 20, 2010

    Sevilla, Spain

    Alcazar

         I'm back in Spain today, in Sevilla. Generally only tourists ride in these carriages. In the background, the Alcázares Reales (Royal Castle).

  • Friday, November 19, 2010

    Final post from the Camino.

         I'm kind of sad to be wrapping up the blog from my latest hike on the Camino. It was nice to relive the experience. I've hiked just over half of the 500 mile Camino. I hope that I get an chance to hike the rest.

        In this final post, I'm actually combining my last two legs  (Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, and San Juan de Ortega to Burgos), because I wanted to wrap it up before I go out of town again today (and I didn't want to leave you hanging).

    Monestary Ruins

    Ruins of the Monastery of San Felix.

    Trio

         My father-in-law took this shot of me, my sister-in-law Ann, and my daughter Laney.

    Cathedral

         In my humble opinion, the Cathedral at Burgos is easily more spectacular than Notre Dame.

    Festival 1

         As luck would have it, there was a week long festival going on in the town of Burgos. These amazing, oversized figures were lined up in the streets.

    Festival 2

    Suddenly, they stood up and began to move!

    Festival 3

          The figures would move around the town and line up while dancers, jugglers, and other participants performed.

    Fireworks

          We later found out that the Festival went on all night as well! It made it virtually impossible for hikers to sleep as the fireworks started booming around midnight followed by loud music well into the early hours of the morning. Many of us gave up attempting to sleep, and just headed up to the 6th floor balcony of the albergue to watch the fireworks. 

    Tunnel

          Well that's it. After a tearful goodbye, my troup headed back on the trail and I headed up to Bilbao for the day. It was overcast and raining on and off most of the day. I only got one decent shot while I was there. There was a bridge overlooking the walkway next to the Guggenheim. I just found out yesterday that it got a bronze award in the local MNADFED show last week. Icing on the cake.

    Bilbao

  • Thursday, November 18, 2010

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

    Above. An early morning view of the Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada as we hit the road.  

       We typically start walking before 6:30AM. This morning we got out before 6AM. The days have been hot, and it's best to reach your destination before mid afternoon.

    Wheat

    Wheat fields at sunrise.

    Group shot

    A group shot.

    Cemetary

    What's one of my blog posts without a cemetary shot?

    Vista

    Just another beautiful vista.

    Poppies

    Wild poppies growing in a wheat field. Luckily for the Spaniards, this variety of poppy doesn't produce Opium.

    Hill Dwelling

    I've been told that these hobbit-like hillside dwellings were once used by hermits, but now are parish residences for the church of San Pedro.

    Church of San Pedro

    The church of San Pedro is covered with bird nests.

    Detail

    A detail from the stagering amount of religious iconography in the church.

  •       I heard this proverb years ago, and it became our montra for the Camino. I have never developed blisters on a hike, but I've never met anyone, myself included, who didn't get blisters on the Camino. Pilgrims switch into sandals as soon as they've reached the day's destination to give their feet a break. One of the first things you do in the morning is to tape, bandage, moleskin, or otherwise prep your feet for the day's trek.

    Blisters

    This Albergue in Santo Domingo de la Calzada provided a volunteer to tend to the battered feet of pilgims.

    Volunteer

    It was a mostly overcast day on our way from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, but the landscape was still beautiful.

    Overcast

    Remains of walls that used to ring the city of Santo Domingo de la Calazada.

    Walls

    The cathedral in Santo Domingo de la Calzada.

    The Cathedral

  • Tuesday, November 16, 2010

    Logroño to Nejera

    Above: My passport (Credencial) stamps from Logroño and Nejera.

          It was a slow day for photos. I took less than a dozen shots on this leg! Hours went by without me lifting the camera to my eye. It might have been a visualy boring hike that day, or maybe I was just in the moment. (Probably the former).

    I'm a sucker for Spanish cemeteries though.

    Cemetery

    Once in Najera, I did see these girls playing with a bubble gun.

    Bubbles

       Racks of drying clothes are a common sight at Albergues. With two sets of clothes, not a day goes by without doing some laundry. This albergue had a coin operated washing machine which isn't entirely out of the ordinary, but it's best to take advantage when one is available.

    Clothes

  • Sunday, November 14, 2010

    A little bit about Scallops

          The scallop is the symbol of the Camino. (That's the short version. Move on to photos now, or be very, very afraid.)  I'm not a scholar, and a blog is not the place for covering this exhaustively, but it's worth a paragraph or two because of it's importance to the Camino. The Scallop is native to area on the coast West of Santiago de Compostela. It may first have been used in pre Christian religious rituals, the Scallop looking like the setting sun. The Romans considered the point on the coast West of Santiago, Finisterre, as the end of the world. (Finisterrae literally means the end of the world in Latin). It is said that people would watch the sun set at Finisterre,  and pray for it's return in the morning. (That system seems to have worked, thanks pre-Christians).

          In the case of St. James, it is said that he briefly preached on the Iberian peninsula. The story has many variations, but the coolest one is that after death, his body was transported back to Finisterre by a ship with no crew, and washed ashore in a scallop encrusted boat. The Roman Catholic Church affirmed the relics were indeed the remains of St. James. and a Cathedral was built in Santiago de Compostela to inter them.

         Also, the scallop is a symbol of the many routes thoughout Europe leading to a single point in Santiago de Compostela. You'll find Scallops all along the Camino, on buildings, waymarkers, even pilgrims backpacks.

    Scallop 2

    Scallop 3

    Los Arcos to Logrono

    Leaving Los Arcos

    Leaving Los Arcos.

    Torres del rios

    Passing the town of Torres Del Rio.

    cemetary

     

    Ruins

    Looking at the road ahead.

    Vineyard

    I saw a wedding party leave a church in Logrono. Fireworks, confetti, laughing, crying. It was beautiful.

    Limo

    Wedding

  • Sunday, November 14, 2010

    ESTELLA TO LOS ARCOS

    MONESTARY

         On the hill is the monastery of Nuestra Senora la Real in the town of Irache. To the right are the Bodegas Irache (Wineries of Irache) where since 1991 pilgrims on the Camino can help themselves to wine from a fountain installed there. (Seriously)

    BODEGAS

        Most hikers were aware of this, and were happy to partake in a little (or a lot of) wine even at 6:30AM.

    BODEGAS 2

    The metal work of the fountain is probably provided by Forjas Ayegui, an amazing iron forger in Irache. Here are a couple shots of a gate they created.

    Ayegui

    Notice the yellow blaze they included directing hikers to the Camino.

    Ayegui 2

    VISTA

    Just another beautiful Vista.

    IGLESIA DE YANIZ

    Above: In the foreground, the ruins of a home. In the distance is the La iglesia de Yanez near Los Arcos.

    RUINS

       There is some urban blight along the Camino in some of these Spanish towns, it just looks prettier than blight might look elsewhere.

    Albergue Fuente de Austria

       We arrive at the Albergue La Fuente de Austria, (not surprizingly, much sought out by many germans we met on the Camino). I generally don't like a German weiss (Wheat) beer, but it turns out that a weiss beer tastes just fine after hiking 22 kilometers.

  • Thursday, November 11, 2010

    Puente La Reiña to Estella

         Puente La Reiña means the "bridge of the Queen". Doña Mayor, a local queen,  built this bridge over the Río Arga for the use of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

    Below. A lone cypress tree.

    cyprus

    Cirauqui

    Above. Approaching the town of Cirauqui.

    Vineyard

           We are entering the Rioja region. It's wine is known around the world. Ask for it next time you're shopping for wine. They'll have a selection, and you won't be disappointed.

    Vineyard 2

     The last image in the world I want to see is another shot of a door somewhere in Europe. But seriously, how can you not throw one in?

    door

     

    A cross overlooking the town of Estella.

    Cross

    A boy chases pigeons in the town square. 

    Boy

    Estella

  • Wednesday, November 10, 2010

    A little bit about Waymarkers.

          Hikers are always on the lookout for waymarkers that show the route of the Camino. The waymarker shown above is actually a rarity since the trail is most often marked by a small yellow painted arrow or "blaze" on a wall, or a tree.  The trail is usually well marked, but there is confusion from time to time so hikers need to be constantly on the lookout unless they'd like to add several kilometers to their hike that day. I believe the stones stacked on these waymarkers by pilgrims represent prayers, or earthly burdens. Some people actually bring a stone from their home.

           Blaze's or markers can come in many shapes and sizes like this arrow below.

    Stone Arrow

    Often a blaze might be as small as this 3 inch yellow arrow on this sign below.

    Cizur menor sign

     

        The Camino is actually a community. It develops and strengthens with each passing day. You meet many people along the way and friendships are forged. Even strangers passing offer an encouraging "Buen Camino" when the encounter fellow pilgrims. I saw this note early in the morning on my way to Puente La Reiña. Someone had left it pinned to a tree along the route in hopes that Manuel would find it.  (Some on the Camino will adopt a Spanish name for their trail name. I later met Manuel, a German in his late 20's and as it turned out Manuel was his real name!) My German is even worse than my Spanish, but I believe the note says something like "I'm on the road and in pretty good shape after so many miles. If I don't see you, I wish you Buen camino and hope you'll have a lot of positive experiences." - Elisabeth

    Note

    From Cizur Menor to Puente La Reiña

    Under Way

    We can see windmills in the distance atop the summit of Alto del Perdon "the Hill of Pardons" as we set out from Cizur Menor. Spain has embraced windpower and this ridge is dotted with wind generators.

    WIND GENERATORS

    On top of Alto del Perdon you'll find this sculpture dedicated to those who hike the Camino.

    Alto Del Perdon

    After we crest the Alto Del Perdon we pass through wheat fields on our way to Puente La Reiña.

    Wheat

          My father-in-law convinced me to take a side trip along an alternative route of the Camino that leads past the Romanesque chapel of Santa María de Eunate, or, St. Mary´s of the Hundred Doors (Eunate means "one hundred doors" in the Basque language). This octangonal chapel was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century. The chapel is surounded by a ring of arches. It was well worth the trip. While I loved the company of my family on this trip,  I walked mostly in solitude this day, and it was an awesome experience. (Many say that this is THE way the Camino is meant to be experienced.)

    Eunate

       A church on a hill at Puente La Reina. I can't remember the name of it, but they were apparently reading the rosary old school, with the priest facing the altar as the conduit through which the congregation can cummunicate with God. (The congregation being 3 people and a baby). It was very moving.

    Hilltop Church

  • Wednesday, November 10, 2010

    Zubiri to Pamplona

           This leg of the Camino is a 28 kilometers (17 miles). (To be accurate, we continued on to Cizur Menor which is a couple miles outside of Pamplona.) The entire Camino is not as bucolic as my photos suggest. For instance, on this leg we spent 20 minutes hiking along a massive concrete manufacturing facility. I don't have a single shot of that to show you because is was perfectly mundane and not even extraordinarily ugly enough to shoot. I did however take this shot of a foal we saw along the way.

    FOAL

    Below. The bridge leading into Larrasoana where we stopped for breakfast.

    Larrasoana

            Below. Some pilgrims entering the streets of Pamplona.

    PAMPLONA 1

         I stopped here for some ice cream and the shop keeper asked me about my hike on the Camino. After letting me struggle on in Spanish for a minute she said with a smile, "Your Spanish is terrible Mon" in a thick Jamaican accent. I'd love to know the back story on that.

         You may recognize Pamplona's town hall if you've ever seen coverage of the annual running of the bulls. We preceded the event by a couple weeks. Probably just as well since about a dozen people have died participating over the years, the most recent being a 27 year old in 2009. We didn't plan on watching any bullfights either. Sorry Mr. Hemmingway, it just seems kind of cruel.

    Town Hall

        When we got to our Albergue in Cizur Menor, we found our hostess, Maribel Roncal (at left) cleaning the "tortuga" (turtle) pond with her nieces and nephews.

    tortuga

    TORTUGAS

  • Tuesday, November 9, 2010

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

        It's 22.6 kilometers (14 miles) from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. The hike is much easier than yesterday's 16 mile hike up into the Pyrenees. We wake up early, (with many of the 119 other pilgrims moving around it's hard not to) and are on our way by 6AM. The terrain is much easier although the descent does get difficult towards the end.

    Cows

    I'm such a city boy. "Ooo, look, cows!"

    STREAM

    A common setup when fording streams.

    ELDERLY_Woman

    An elderly woman greets the day, opening her shutters and putting this 2x2 in place.

    PAN

          The main component of any meal in Spain is bread (pan). Many of our meals as we stopped in towns along the way consisted of pan, some prosciutto, and cheese. My sister-in-law Ann was fond of calling them "goddamned bocadillas." I don't really know what the story was behind this bread in a window of a local home, but my guess is delivery.

    ZUBIRI

    The bridge leading into Zubiri.

  • Sunday, November 7, 2010

    Roncesvalles, Spain

    The descent into Roncesvalles is steep, but beautiful.

    descent

         When we arrive at Roncesvalles, we have our first experience with an "Albergue", as the hostels are called along the Camino. The 120 bed Albergue "Itzandegia" in Roncesvalles is staffed by volunteers from Holland from the end of March to November, and is run by monks in the winter.  Most hostels are run by volunteers who have hiked the Camino. I found these Dutch volunteers to be warm, friendly, and helpful. To gain admittance to this, or any official Albergue,  you must show the Credencial you were given at the Camino office in St. Jean Pied De Port.  A volunteer will stamp it with the seal of their albergue.   When a pilgrim arrives in Santiago de Compostela (500 miles later) they present their Credencial at the Perigrinos Office for review. Only then will they issue a "Compostelanas" a certificate verifying that they have completed the pilgrimage. The stamp for Roncesvalles is the blue oval, bottom left.

    Credencial

        You get what you pay for! The fee for your stay here is only 6 Euros. Some find the Albergue at Roncesvalles to be overwhelming, but most begin to develop relationships with the rest of the Community on this amazing shared experience.   With 120 beds it's best to have earplugs. After an 8 hour hike, I had no trouble falling asleep.

    Roncesvalles

    hostel

  • Friday, November 5, 2010

    The Descent to Roncesvalles

    This horse arrived just in time to bouy the spirits of my daughter.

          We had been climbing for about 5 hours when this horse walked up to us and visited for a moment before moving on. This was a nice boost before our 2 hour decent into Roncevaux (Roncesvalles).

    HORSE

    This was the coldest day of the Camino. We packed light, (exept for my 7 pounds of camera gear) and we were wearing just about everything we had for this cold, and windy hike up and over the Pyrenees. Fortunately, it wasn't raining.

         One of the things I never get tired of is hiking in the clouds. It's really cool to watch a cloud coming toward you and suddenly find yourself enveloped by it.

    CLOUDS

           During the decent we pass through the area where Charlemagne suffered his defeat by the Basque tribes at the battle of Roncesvalles in 814.

  • Thursday, November 4, 2010

    Basque Country

    The hike up to Col Lepoeder takes us through a lot of grazing land for sheep and horses.

           We are heading into Basque country. Most of the Basques consider themselves as neither French, nor Spanish, although they lost most of their autonomy during the French revolution. Their paramilitary group, ETA, responsible for nearly 1000 deaths since 1968, declared a ceasefire only this past September.

    Sign

          Signs in the Basque region will have the names posted in Spanish and Basque.  For instance, you see "Orreaga," the Basque name for Roncesvalles on this signpost. (Note the yellow and blue scallop. This is the symbol for the Camino and is found on all waymarkers along the route.)

    NAVARRA

    This marks the border between France and Spain. Again, the Spanish region of Navarra is posted here in Basque also.

  • Wednesday, November 3, 2010

    Into the Pyrenees.

    SJPP

    Three Pilgrims, or "Peregrinos" as they are called, taking the first steps of their 500 mile journey.

           Fewer than 10% of hikers walk the entire Camino from St. Jean Pied-De-Port to Santiago De Compostela. I've hiked about 300 miles of the Camino on two different occasions, but these 3 hikers (my sister-in-law, father-in-law, and daughter) are captured here in the first few moments of their 5 week trek to Santiago De Compostela. My 74 year old father-in-law has walked the entire 500 mile Camino Frances route twice, the first time being with my son 4 years ago. He has hiked the 450 mile Le Puy Route through France as well!

        Many consider the first day of the hike to be the hardest. The adrenaline is pumping since many hikers have been planning this for months, or even years, but it is a challenging day. Within a few hours we had ascended nearly 2000 feet into the Pyrenees.

    Pyrenees

  • Tuesday, November 2, 2010

    Saint Jean Pied-de-Port

             This is the second installment of a series I'm posting about my experiences hiking a portion of the Camino De Santiago in Northern Spain this past summer.  And, yes, I've already changed my mind. I originally intended to break down the hike day by day, and most segments work well for that, but the initial day is just too much for one post.

           The Camino Frances Route begins in St. Jean Pied De Port France, literally meaning "Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass". The first thing you do when you arrive there is to get your "Credencial" or, passport from the pilgrim office. Volunteers here ask you if you are hiking the Camino for religious reasons, or adventure.  About a third of those hiking claim their motivations to be religious. I mark "adventure" on my Credencial, but as I mentioned before, it is a spiritual journey nonetheless. At each town along the way, you will have your Credencial stamped, so when you have reached Santiago De Compostela, you will receive your plenary indulgence from the church. Wiki calls this is "the full or partial remission of temporal punishment due for sins which have already been forgiven". 

          We get a bite to eat and then head to our accommodations for the night, a bed and breakfast (breakfast being coffee and bread with a bit of cheese) run by and eccentric French woman who moved there several years ago as a form of semi-retirement. She spoke incessantly, and only in French. She didn't seem to care that neither I, most of my travel companions, nor two German hikers staying there could understand much of what she was saying. What I did understand was hysterical as she described all the snoring and farting that awaited us at the 120 bed hostel in "Roncevaux" (Roncesvalles, Spain) after our 16 mile hike the next day.


  • Monday, November 1, 2010

    14 Days on El Camino de Santiago


    I have a hard time sitting still. Over the years I've run 12 marathons, climbed 5 mountains, and hiked portions of the Grand Canyon, the Appalachian Trail, and El Camino de Santigo. Whether you're religious or not, all of these endeavors have a spiritual component. (I had a particularly long conversation with god once when we lost the trail in a snowstorm during a decent on Mount Rainier). However, El Camino de Santiago,  (The way of St. James) is easily the most spiritual journey I have encountered. The Camino is a pilgimage through Northern Spain that dates back to the 8th Century. There are actually many routes of this pilgrimage throughout Europe, but the most common route is the 500 mile stretch from Saint Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. Ove the years I have had the good fortune to hike segments of the Camino totalling about 300 miles.  There are often opportunities to get on the internet along the way, but it would be very difficult to stay in the moment AND blog about it, so I made the choice to blog when I got back. For the next two weeks, I will be posting a few photos and recollections from each day on the Camino matching the schedule day for day. This is my first post. We begin in France, in the small village of Saint Jean Pied De port.